Questions asked by participants of the event "Beauty in Spring - find yourself in illness!"

She answered the questions of women suffering from oncology Monika Grudnik-Wroniszewska – Director of Meder Beauty brand development in Poland.

1. Two years after chemotherapy, nail problems began, i.e. delamination. What to do to change this condition?

After the autumn and winter period, the nail plate often becomes brittle, breaks, splits and becomes dull. The least complicated method of caring for damaged nail plate is to regularly apply vitamin A + E (available from a pharmacy, in capsules). Home treatment for thin and brittle nails may also be helpful. Heat 2-3 teaspoons of castor oil (also available at the pharmacy), add 2 squeezed capsules of vitamin A + E and a few drops of lemon juice. Carefully massage the mixture into each nail separately. Put on plastic gloves and then wrap your hands in a warm terry towel. Keep it warm for about 30 minutes, and after removing the towel and plastic gloves, massage the remaining mixture into the nail plate once again. Another method is soaking in horsetail decoction: pour 2 tablespoons of dried horsetail with a glass of boiling water. Immerse your nails in warm liquid for 15 minutes. Finally, massage in vitamin A + E. A gelatin bath will also be helpful. Dissolve 3 teaspoons of gelatin in a glass of warm water and soak your nails in it for 20 minutes. Then massage them with vitamin A + E. A very important point in the care of weak and brittle nails is regularity - please repeat the treatments as often as possible.

2. How to care for atopic skin on a daily basis and when the disease flares up? What to look for in cosmetics? Can a cosmetologist help? What treatments would help?

Please remember that one of the main factors influencing the severity of atopic dermatitis is food allergies. Assessment of what is harmful comes through trial and error. The most common allergens are: cow's milk, egg white, fish, seafood, nuts, honey, soy, citrus fruits, strawberries, cocoa and, more and more often, gluten. A very good way to strengthen the body in the fight against atopic dermatitis is to take pre and probiotics. I recommend synbiotics, which are a combination of both. It is extremely important to take pre and probiotics regularly and for a long period of time. Atopic dermatitis tends to worsen in winter and spring. In winter, the skin is exposed to changing temperatures and very dry air in heated rooms. In spring, the pollen of many plants (trees, grass) begins, and as a result, inhalant allergens appear in the air. AD also worsens during periods of increased stress and fatigue. If the symptoms are not in the acute phase and the main problem is dryness, tightness and itching of the skin, you should take care of the skin with emollients. When there is an exacerbation and skin superinfection occurs, antibiotic treatment should be used and, in acute cases, also steroid treatment. Regardless of the situation, whether the symptoms of the disease are exacerbated or alleviated, please regularly use emollients (bath lotions, balms, emulsions, creams). Their task is to lubricate the skin, moisturize it and also rebuild and strengthen it against environmental factors. They should contain substances that replenish lipid deficiencies, i.e. polyunsaturated fatty acids (various types of natural oils), but also moisturizing substances such as urea, hyaluronic acid, amino acids, pyroglutamic acid and soothing irritations, i.e. allantoin, D-panthenol. I highly recommend prebiotic cosmetics, which stabilize the ecoflora and significantly strengthen the skin's immunity. They are very safe because they only act on the stratum microbium, i.e. the outermost layer of the skin, which is the skin's invisible protective coat. Fortunately, we already have quite a large selection of prebiotic cosmetics available at every price level.

3. How to help dry and cracked skin? What to look for in cosmetics?

Please look for the so-called emollients. These are specialized dermocosmetics that contain substances that help maintain proper skin hydration, lubricate it, eliminate irritations and rebuild the hydrolipid coat of the epidermis. Emollients mainly consist of natural vegetable fats such as macadamia oil, canola oil, shea butter, olive oil, corn oil. They do not contain aggressive preservatives, artificial colors, foaming substances or fragrances. They reduce the feeling of itching and have anti-inflammatory properties. They are extremely gentle, which is why they are used even in newborns from the first days of life. I personally like Dermedic - a very large selection of affordable products. I also recommend Emolium and Emotopic.

4. What should anti-wrinkle cosmetics contain?

My answer will be short: vitamins, antioxidants and peptides. Peptides can replace ingredients that are missing in the skin or stimulate it to produce the missing ingredients in the amounts it needs. Modern anti-aging cosmetics should contain peptides.

5. How often should you exfoliate your skin if you replace it every month? If it is dry, should it be exfoliated as often?

In healthy and young skin, the exchange of epidermal cells takes about 28 days. Age, stress, sun damage, illness, and even hormonal disruptions make this cell replacement process longer, sometimes up to 56 days. The skin then becomes dull, has an earthy and uneven color. She looks sad and tired. By getting rid of dead skin cells, we achieve a brighter, smoother complexion. There is another very important reason why it is worth exfoliating your skin, especially when it is dry. Dead epidermis cells create a barrier that interferes with the skin's absorption of active ingredients contained in care cosmetics. In other words, peeling increases the effectiveness of creams and prevents skin dehydration. Please do not give up on peelings if your skin is dry. I understand that choosing a peel (granular, enzymatic or acid) may be difficult, so I recommend consultation with a cosmetologist who will assess the condition of the skin and select appropriate care and peeling for use at home.

6. After oncological surgery 3 years ago, I lost over 20 kg. I have the figure of a model, a retiree. Can excess skin on the face be removed only with a scalpel or the use of steroids? I don't have blackheads, just terrible wrinkles.

I remember our conversation clearly. I maintain the opinion that neither plastic surgery nor steroid drugs will solve this problem. The condition of the skin may be slightly improved by aesthetic medicine treatments, such as filling wrinkles with hyaluronic acid, volumetry or lifting threads. This procedure is time-consuming, very expensive, and the end result may not meet your expectations. From my "professional eye", the condition of the skin is not bad and there is a lot of good work done. And for that you deserve a big applause! I know that it is difficult for you to apply makeup and it does not look good, so please test BB creams. These are care creams with mineral pigments that blend into the skin and adjust to the color, giving it a natural and fresh look. Please apply this cream in a small amount, just enough to lightly cover the skin.

7. What to use for atopic dermatitis on the eyelids above the eyes (recurrent wounds, itchy skin)?

First of all, I would like to find the cause of such recurrent atopic dermatitis on the eyelids. Cat hair, pollen, mites? If so, consultation with an allergist and carefully selected antihistamines are necessary. Or maybe food intolerance? Gluten, dairy? This involves the need to eliminate products from the diet that are not good for the body. Without finding the cause, treatment will be a vicious circle, sometimes better, sometimes worse. I would like to suggest testing for demodex - it is a microscopic parasite, a bit similar to mites, that likes human skin. Demodex infection occurs through contact and most often in places such as hospitals, clinics, etc. The most numerous parasites are located around the nose, around the eyes, on the forehead and chin. Tests for human demodex can be performed in ALAB laboratories - it is a very quick and very simple test. Arnica gel from Floslek may be helpful temporarily, if there is no exacerbation of the disease.

8. What moisturizing cosmetics would you recommend for acne-prone facial skin with dry areas and after chemotherapy treatment 2 years ago.

I would suggest consulting a cosmetologist first. Why? If the skin is acne-prone and dry in places (I'm afraid it's also dehydrated), it will require several different care procedures. It is not possible to meet all the skin's needs with just an ordinary moisturizing cream. The cosmetologist will assess the condition and condition, its regenerative potential, and will also assess the type and nature of acne lesions. Based on an interview regarding, among others, care habits and an assessment of the current condition of the skin, it will suggest the most beneficial solutions that can actually help and restore the skin's nice appearance. For problematic skin, there are no universal care solutions that will work for everyone. From such quick tips, I can suggest that you should now avoid 1) the use of reusable brushes and sponges, 2) hot water, soaps, micellar fluids and excessively degreasing preparations, because paradoxically they stimulate the sebaceous glands, 3) cosmetics with alcohol, because they deepen the skin dehydration 4) self-removal of possible pimples and blackheads. You certainly need a cosmetic that will rebuild the hydrolipid coat and restore proper hydration, but it cannot be "too heavy" and cannot cause occlusion on the skin. Without the help of a cosmetologist, this can be quite difficult to do.

9. How to care for the skin of your hands, how to make sure they are not rough and the skin is tight?

Paraffin! Grandma's method, but it is still popular and effective today. How to do a paraffin treatment at home, step by step? Prepare a bowl, plastic gloves and terry gloves in advance. Pour paraffin for your hands into a bowl (paraffin oil can be purchased at a pharmacy) and add some warm water to it. Before the procedure, wash and dry your hands thoroughly. I recommend using a granular peel. Then, apply a nourishing hand cream or balm to your skin, then immerse your hands in the prepared solution, put on gloves and terry gloves (you can wrap your hands in a towel or blanket). Wait 20 minutes until the paraffin softens and moisturizes the skin of your hands, and after that time, remove the gloves and massage in some more cream/balm, if necessary. This paraffin treatment combined with massage can also be performed in beauty salons that provide manicure and pedicure services. It's also very good for your feet! The treatment can be repeated often until the proper hydration and softness of the hand skin returns.

10. Do snail slime creams have benefits for our skin?

Definitely yes. Snail slime contains, among others, allantoin (it has a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect), some glycolic acid (brightens the skin and slows down the aging process), mucopolysaccharides (regenerates and repairs the skin) as well as collagen, elastin and vitamins A, E, C. I recommend cosmetics with snail slime for skin regeneration and repair, but also for micro-damages, burns and scars, work quite well.

11. Please advise what girls can use after or during chemotherapy for painful hands that have very thin skin.

This is one of the more complicated topics of our Saturday meeting. The solutions we have in cosmetology will help moisturize, smooth and regenerate the skin, but they will not eliminate pain. These are neuropathic pains caused by damage at the level of nerves and skin receptors. It is necessary to consult a neurologist as soon as possible and administer appropriate painkillers and those that improve the functioning of damaged nerves, including: α-lipoic acid (ALA) and B vitamins. α-lipoic acid (ALA) is found in food products - spinach, yeast, broccoli, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts, carrots, beets. However, diet alone will not significantly increase this compound in the body, so it is advisable to consult a doctor. Rehabilitation and muscle strengthening will also be necessary.

12. What is the relationship between hypothyroidism and hair loss?

Hair loss is one of the symptoms of a diseased thyroid gland - hypothyroidism. As well as chronic dryness and flaking of the skin. Improper thyroxine concentration slows down the processes taking place in hair follicles, up to almost complete stopping of hair growth. It also leads to impaired functioning of the sebaceous glands - when they are underactive, sebum deficiency becomes a problem, which is why the hair becomes dry, rough, brittle and dull. In case of hypothyroidism, pharmacological treatment is necessary. It is also worth following a diet rich in zinc, biotin, magnesium, iron, vitamins A, B, D and E, as well as selenium and iodine. I recommend a visit to a trichologist and a trichoscopy, i.e. a trichological examination using a dermatoscope or a special camera, which will allow you to assess the condition of the scalp, but also to assess the hair.

13. How to care for the skin at the mastectomy site?

Please include the use of moisturizing and oiling creams in your daily care rituals. The soothing Xray Subtilimasage PHARMACERIS massage cream (Dr Irena Eris) or the cream from the Balneum Intensive Line or Nanobase conditioner for dry skin will work well. I also recommend cosmetics (emulsions, masks, balms, conditioners) with shea butter, but only those without fragrance, so as not to risk skin irritation and allergy. And one more "golden rule" of skin care after mastectomy - regularity.

14. How to care for your neck to minimize the signs of age?

When it comes to daily care, we usually focus on the face and other parts of our body, and forget about the neck. And the neck and cleavage age and lose their attractive appearance faster than the face. Please remember that the skin on the neck and décolletage is very thin and delicate, and almost completely devoid of fat lining and sebaceous glands. I recommend cosmetics designed specifically for the care of the neck and décolleté, containing ingredients that help fight skin aging, such as coenzyme Q10, flavonoids, vitamins A + C + E and AHA fruit acids. To increase the absorption of active ingredients contained in care cosmetics, you should gently exfoliate the skin of your neck and décolletage at least once a week. Exfoliation of the superficial layers of the epidermis stimulates the skin to act, improves its blood supply, making it smooth, rosy, bright, and looks younger and fresher. For delicate neck and décolleté skin, fine-grained or enzymatic peeling is best, performed preferably in the evening, when the skin regenerates. When caring for the neck and cleavage, it is important not only to choose the right cosmetic, but also the method of its application. Always apply the care product from the bottom up, using gentle stroking and tapping movements. Massage the left side of the neck with your right hand, and the right side with your left hand. The massage stimulates blood and lymph circulation, oxygenates the skin, and affects its elasticity and firmness. A perfect complement to daily care is to stimulate the skin with alternating streams of warm and cool water, massage with a washcloth or terry glove, but never with rough body massage brushes. It is also worth exercising your head and neck muscles and taking care of a well-shaped sleeping pillow.